Monday, December 21, 2015

A week ago today, we fell in love with Barbados!

In port with the freighters and such...
The local university campus...wonder if they need a history prof?
Predominantly Anglican, the island nation is home to a great many faiths.
Love this Christmas Tree!
Barbados is also home to Mount Gay rum, of course
Caribbean Blue
Bridgetown is her major port and city, but Barbados features numerous townships in her parishes
As well as resorts for the rich and famous

Juxtaposed to "Chattel Houses" that freed people built on the model of plantation slave quarters
The ruins of Farley Hill, a majestic reminder of the wealth sugar brought...and the exploitation
Now a lovely national park established by HRH Queen Elizabeth II
A stand of mahogany
And an impressive view!
The national flower: "Pride of Barbados" is abundant there
Down the road, what our guide described as a Bajan (Barbadian) gentleman's club
Someone asked if they had cows on the island...yes, and they stare at me!
And here it is, the fuel that built empires: sugar cane nearing ripeness
Old windmill base...windmills powered the sugar cane crushing drums. 
The juice was collected and taken to the boiling house, where it was boiled until it was ready to crystallize. Then it was poured into conical molds. The liquid that drips through the small, screened opening at the bottom is molasses. Molasses can be cooked two more times to render more sugar, after which it is dark, bitter "black strap" molasses. At any point, the molasses can be set aside, exposed to yeast, and thus fermented. The fermented "beer" is then ready to distill into the currency of the Atlantic world in the 18th century: rum!
The introduction of industrial beet sugar production, along with corn syrup and artificial sweeteners, doomed the Caribbean sugar economy, and so it is a side bar to Barbados now. Her chief industry is tourism, though she has a diversified light industrial manufacturing economy and local agricultural economy.
Now why would tourists want to come here? Hmmmm.

Local crafters selling trinkets and textiles...the soil near here is excellent for making ceramics, and there were numerous examples of bracelets, etc. on display
Mind you, this is not a resort...just another public beach. The Atlantic side of the island is not suitable for development because of soil instability and exposure to the wrath of major storms, thus it remains unmarred! Perfect for filming scenes for pirate movies and such...
A view from higher up. Though swimming here is risky, at best, some nearby beaches are attractive to surfers. Still, the location is perfect for a picnic...maybe some chicken, washed down with the local beer
Flowers from Africa...the spirit of West Africa is strong here!
The Spanish introduced sugar production to the Caribbean, based on the Portuguese plantation system used in Brazil. The British perfected their own variation on this theme here on Barbados. For well over a century, they dominated the Atlantic slave trade, with many, many ships sailing the Trade Winds directly from Africa to this island.
The plantation owners planted giant palms around their houses on the hills (this is a modern house, but same landscaping) so that slaves could find their way home from the fields, and so that watchmen on the several signal hills could keep track of the plantations and look for signs of slave revolt.
We visited Gun Hill Signal Station, now a park
The views, usually spectacular, were muted by "liquid sunshine"
But that only accentuated the beautiful flowers!

My dear Bug!
And, of course, there was 18th century tube artillery!
A British solder convalescing here carved this lion out of local limestone!
Impressive symbol of his empire, indeed.
Bussa!!! A great hero of Bajan emancipation! The process began in 1834 with pressure from Wilberforce and others in Parliament, but Bussa helped push for its immediacy, resulting in a much sooner formal date of 1838 instead of perhaps a generation later. This, of course, was 27 years before the 13th Amendment became law in the US, thereby ending slavery everywhere, including Kentucky.
The ubiquitous Caribbean chickens...our guide told us that hers are a chicken-loving people!
That explains why KFC thrives in Bridgetown, while McDonald's packed up and left.
The ubiquitous Caribbean fruit and vegetable market!
Bridgetown getting its Christmas groove on
Barbados has a parliamentary system, and here is where the elected officials convene
While they still have an appointed royal governor on the island, they govern and police themselves
The harbor patrol moved this trawler away from the docks as I looked on. It meant no harm, as far as I could tell, but it was parked too close to the cruise ships, perhaps, and needed to clear out before we set sail that evening.
Cruise ships are designed not to need tugs, of course, but I enjoyed seeing this one off our starboard bow...just in case, I suppose.
Harbor pilot overseeing our exit, Cap'n Kate took us to sea...next destination St. Lucia!
While other boats scurried back to port.
One entertains flights of fancy...
while enjoying some light refreshment before dinner...
After dinner moon, smiling down!

My compliments to the extraordinary tour guide, the skilled driver, and the beautiful people we met! We hope to see you again, Barbados, for once was surely not enough to enjoy your hospitality.


Sunday, December 20, 2015

Off we go! Danabug and Dr. M's Big Adventure

This December 15th was our Silver Wedding Anniversary, so I booked passage on big silver (okay, they were white and blue) planes to San Juan, Puerto Rico, where we boared a big silver (okay, it was white and blue) boat! We sailed with Celebrity, and I must say no regrets. The staterooms and, most importantly, bathrooms, are a tad roomier, and our veranda was wonderful! There were many adults of a certain age, but also numerous young couples, as Celebrity, while not ignoring children, is not Disney or Carnival, etc. The pace of life on ship suited us...just the right amount of formality with mostly a casual feel, and many people who at least dressed as if they were in our relative income bracket. I teach at a private liberal arts university...a small, poor one. My wive is a successful assistant to some powerful people who make sure she is well compensated, and she makes a bit more than I do, but this was a real stretch for our budget...and I'm sure for the budgets of others in our company of travelers. But hey, 25 years! Worth every penny.

We were to sail aboard the Summit, our floating home for a week, captained by Kate McCue, the industry's first American female captain! She is fabulous! She greeted us each day with "quotes" from her friend Confucius, such as:
"Woman who drive like Hell likely to get there" and "Little girl who dreams big will reach Summit"

Cap'n Sugar, as I called her (you'll understand the double meaning soon)

"Feet wet" off the coast of South Carolina, 12/12

Hey, that wing looks silvery!

San Juan!

Familiar brand of canned food

Hiram Bithorn Stadium, named in honor of the first Puerto Rican to play in the Major Leagues (with the Cubs in 1942).

We had issues flying down...we got up too early and arrived at an airport clearly not ready to receive us. Hey, better early than late, but we could have used an extra hour's sleep. We boarded our 6am flight to O'Hare on time, but due to delays in Chicago, we had to wait awhile to take off. We flew the spacious Embraer 145 to and from O'Hare this trip, and the Boeing 737 to and from San Juan. Ironically, the little jet has more legroom than the big one! Ugh, that 4.5 hour flight was not fun for my knees...a situation compounded by a mechanical failure with an engine starter that required us not only to switch planes after boarding at O'Hare, but also to walk from our original gate and terminal to a whole new terminal conveniently located on the other side of the airport! I've seen more of O'Hare than I ever wanted to. Finally we were airborne, but two hours late, which meant our timing would be very tight. The airline did give us free booze and tv access for our troubles, which was nice. A couple of bottles of scotch eased the pain. Finally we arrived, just in time to be told that a big event down near the docks was causing major traffic problems! No problem...we hired a cabbie who understood the meaning of haste and the monetary compensation that came with it. We would have flown down early and enjoyed Old San Juan, etc., but my teaching schedule prohibited it. So we gambled (with insurance, but knowing if we were late we would miss our day at sea (though maybe get that day in old San Juan). It was the best we could do under the circumstances, and it all worked out in the end!

And we're under way!

Sunday was our only "as sea" day of the cruise, and we loved it! Here I am enjoying a Bloody Mary while my wife enjoys her iced tea...the regular kind. Fortunately, she is not a drinker, as I do enough damage for both of us.

One of our very favorite parts of the ship the fantail on the 10th deck!

Views from our veranda!
Aft
Fore
Working on my tan...

Sunset!


And a bonus sliver of a moon...a silver sliver

I will be posting many more pics in the following days: a wonderful day on Barbados, our anniversary day on St. Lucia, our crazy drive around Antigua, the day I got food poisoning on St. Maarten, etc. But by now maybe you are getting the idea: we toured the sugar islands of the southern Caribbean! Captain Sugar got us from port to port, no worries, and we met so many beautiful people on these islands. We came to appreciate even more the challenges they face, and how their fates have so often been and continue to be intertwined with European and American policies, conflicts, etc. For this historian of the U.S. and the Atlantic world, it truly was a once in a lifetime opportunity, and for my wife, it was a gift of a week of adventure, luxury, and so much more. We pushed ourselves, pampered ourselves, stuffed ourselves, and thoroughly enjoyed it all...well, apart from the rumbly tummies.
So stay tuned for more from this Linthead of the Caribbean!

Captain Kate, fetch me yonder horizon, if you please?

Sunday, November 8, 2015

Humbled Awardee in Ol' Kentuckee

The last two Fridays have brought recognition to this professor of history, first by his teaching peers and then by his publishing peers. The former was captured thus by my darling Bug:


This Friday, the two of us traveled to quaint, endearing Frankfort, the capital of Kentucky, for the Kentucky Historical Society's annual meeting and awards presentation. It was a lovely trip!
We convened at the Old State Capitol
Yours truly heading up the steps to the House Chamber
 G. Washington, Esq. presiding
 The beautiful, historic electric chandelier
Receiving the award plaque and very generous check from DT, the editor of the Register
The plaque
Having my picture taken with ND (to my left), old friend and former editor of the Register
After the reception, we paid our respects to Northern Kentucky's own William Goebel, Democrat but outspoken opponent of railroad monopolies. He was shot and mortally wounded on this site in January 1900 in the midst of a contested gubernatorial election. The Capitol was surrounded by state militia, and state representatives scattered. Republicans convened down in London, Kentucky, while Democrats convened in near-by Louisville. In the end, Goebel was sworn in while the Republicans cried foul. He died the next day, leaving his running mate and more palatable choice, J.C.W. Beckham, to take over as governor. Some say the Republicans had Goebel shot; others say his death served the interests of the railroads a little too conveniently, and so the debate goes on.
 Then we joined the tree-lighting festivities on St. Clair Street!
 Thank you, Frankfort! Always a pleasure...
 After a nice stroll with my sweetie, it was back to the hotel for rest...it had been a long day!
 I treated myself to some of this, realizing after the fact that I didn't have an opener
I was contemplating going back to the car to check the tool kit for some usable implement when I spotted this inviting door stop...it worked like a charm as a bottle opener! Just a matter of leverage, really...
 The next morning, we drove back north, generally following the Kentucky River until we hit the Ohio at Carrollton.
 The view from the General Butler State Park overlook
 The Bug
 Doe, a deer!
 Bend in the mighty Ohio River!
 Late season color here


The Butler-Turpin House
An important Kentucky family
We crossed the Ohio at Markland Locks and Dam, then we took one of our favorite drives in all the world: up the Ohio through Patriot and Rising Sun and Aurora to Lawrenceburg, Indiana, where we enjoyed a late lunch and another stretch of the legs:
 


Alack, we could not stay more than a night in old Kentucky, but we did, as always, enjoy our time there. Here's hoping that their current troubles in time are resolved. The Goebel assassination opened the door to yet more corruption and graft, particularly on the part of the L&N Railroad. Here's hoping the current accusations of voter fraud and election tampering, unlike in 1900, lead to reform and progress, not violence, overt or legislative, and yet more corruption.